How To Customize Suits What Are The World’S Suit Grades

Abstract: people rely on clothes, men rely on suits, and a suit with exquisite workmanship can enhance a man’s overall worth. Men in suits and shoes are always full of infinite attraction. Then, if you want to become a upstart in the upper class, you need to have a suit with your own name written and tailored for you. Anderson Sheppard, h-huntsman and Savile row in the UK and Kiton, rubinacci, caraceni, attolini and Borrelli in Italy are all world-famous suit brands< p> world suit ranking

A few sets of good suits are necessary for a mature man, but many choices in the market are eye-catching. First of all, if you don’t have a perfect model figure, you can’t buy ready-made clothes that are 100% fit, and even if you change them again, you can’t compare them with superior customized suits. Therefore, from a practical point of view, it is more important to know a good tailor than to be close to a famous brand store. In addition, some of the prices listed below are those of a few years ago, for reference only

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super grade:

Anderson Sheppard, h-huntsman and other 10 to 15 workshops in the UK operate ready to wear, full customization and semi customization, which are among the top in the world in terms of history, tailoring, technology and reputation

quasi super grade:

Savile  Other workshops in row have the same technology and process as more than 10 super class workshops. Most of them are run by tailors from super class stores, but without historical accumulation and various gimmicks, their reputation is not so loud. Kiton in Italy (update: stores will be available in Beijing, Chengdu, Xi’an, Hangzhou, Hong Kong and Taiyuan by may2012), Brioni (update: stores will be available in Beijing, Changchun, Chengdu, Dalian, Guangzhou, Harbin, Hong Kong, Macao, Shanghai, Shenyang and Wuhan by may2012), oxxford in the United States (it seems that there is no such store in China). Their crafts are all learned from the UK, but the manual content is slightly low. About 90% to 95% of them are completed by hand. They are not fully customized. They mainly focus on ready-made clothes with a small amount of semi customized

level 1:

UK non savile  Custom tailor from row

Italian brands such as rubinacci, caraceni, attolini and Borrelli mainly focus on ready-made clothes. The version has Italian characteristics, but the Chinese are not used to it and are not easy to accept. In China, the popularity is very low, and there is a certain manual content

The above can be regarded as the world’s top men’s clothing in a broad sense

Level 2:

Italian professional menswear manufacturers represented by Zegna and CANALI. Mainly for ready-made clothes, with low manual content. The version is close to the UK, in line with the Chinese aesthetic, and has a high reputation in China. The process is very similar to that of domestic suits, and most of them are made by Chinese factories

Level 3:

The so-called designer&nbsp, represented by Armani; Shop brand, non professional men’s wear brand, men’s wear business is mostly outsourced to other manufacturers

(in fact, there are many subdivisions in this third level. Armani has several brands of suits. According to Wikipedia, Armani’s sales in 2010 were 1.4 billion euros, but its operating income reached an astonishing 900million. Considering the large amount of advertising expenses deducted, it can be imagined that only how much money you pay is really used for clothes. Before, there were various OEM doors and OEM doors, which are extremely overestimated Brand… Compared with the revenue of 5billion in 2010, Ralph Lauren had an operating revenue of 700million, which is a lot. Red bean group used to be one of Armani’s OEM companies in China, mainly processing suits for Armani. According to insiders, red bean group charged about $50 (about 320 yuan) for each suit. However, in Armani’s stores, the price of these suits was about $500 to $800 (5000 yuan), a gap of more than 10 times. Zhouhaijiang, President of Hongdou Group, said that this is the value of the brand.)

level 4:

There are many domestic brands with similar processes, which will be discussed in detail in the future

Savile  Row top level articles:

Saville street is located in oxford  Near circus, it has been known as the holy land of global men’s clothing customization for 200 years. Senior officials, businessmen and performing stars all over the world take a suit handmade by Saville’s top tailor as their identity symbol. The suits produced by Saville street can be divided into three types: off the peg, or ready to wear, made to measure, and bespoke

Italian factions:

Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples and other places in Italy have been famous for producing textiles and leather products since the 12th century. This tradition has spread to the present day, which has formed a multi center and multi genre pattern in the fashion empire of Italy. After World War II, the Italian garment industry developed rapidly, and Italians could do much more business than traditional Britons; zegna¡¢Cerruti  In 1881, Armani and other famous brands have developed from small family workshops to brands with franchised stores all over the world. However, Saville Street still relies on several tailors to travel around the world, and its output and sales are not the same. Rare things are more expensive. The old-fashioned Europeans seem to take a higher look at the conservative Saville street and think that Italian goods have the smell of upstart

domestic articles:

To put it simply, buy a domestic suit

First, in terms of workmanship. The process of domestic goods above 2000 yuan is almost the same. They are all produced by imported equipment and large factory assembly lines. Of course, some of them are poor. The key is to compare and look at the details

Second, cutting. At present, almost all suit manufacturers in China only produce a single row of three buttons. The specific template is Zegna’s 1995 version

Third, style. More than 99% of domestic products are three button. In 1997, three button was popular in Europe. Two years later, it is still dominated by single row two button high lapel. There are also quite a few double row buttons in Britain. A 2&nbsp between two and three button is popular in the United States; roll  3. There are very few domestic factories that make two grain buttons

Fourth, fabric. Generally speaking, the thicker domestic materials are better. The surface should have fine fluff, luster and positive color

Fifth, auxiliary materials. We can’t see most of the auxiliary materials. What we can see are lining silk, sleeve silk, buttons and zippers

how to customize a suit

The first step is to choose a store. In fact, it doesn’t matter how big the store is or how well it is decorated. In the end, you will pay the price of your suit. Make sure there is a tailor in the shop. If there is no tailor, only the waiter can go. There is no need to consider it. Of course, if you are willing to experiment with more money, you can

Communicate with the tailor, clarify your requirements and ask him if he can do it. If you can ask him to measure you instead of the waiter. In short, the person who asks to communicate with you and serve you is the one who cuts this suit for you

Ask the tailor clearly that he will make a version for you independently instead of stealing work such as coding or pushing. You can ask him to make a version or ask him to show it later to prove it

No matter big or small stores, they must ask them how many times they can try on and make changes. In the UK, there are at least three times and at least two times in China. And whether the first try on is ready-made or semi-finished

If it is a small shop that costs hundreds of yuan for manual work, it is all right. The cost is limited. It can’t stand doing so many times

If it’s a big store, if it’s not a semi-finished product for the first time, they can also leave directly. It’s definitely stealing work. They can try on the ready-made clothes for the first time, and then they can find an excuse. They can’t move much. They can only change your weight and length, and they can save money by making big adjustments. This attitude is very difficult to make a satisfactory dress, and they can’t afford the price you pay

The ideal fitting should be three times. The first two times are semi-finished. All parts can be changed in the first trial. Change it according to your requirements and try it again. If you are satisfied, you can make it into ready-made clothes with your consent. Then the third time you try it on is ready-made clothes

The requirements for tailoring and workmanship are: first, it is required to fit with a waist; second, I have said many times that it is required to be flat and wrinkle free, especially the back and armpit

The key to workmanship is to see the lining. The chest and shoulders are not deformed when the arms do various movements. No pit indicates that the lining is qualified. These shall be tested and required

appreciation and evaluation of suits

1) check

Another key factor to distinguish the quality of a suit is the matching of stripes and plaids, that is, if the fabric is striped or plaid, it must be matched in many positions. Domestic brands are very poor at this point. I have seen only about five brands that match the bar, and only one brand that matches the bar. In the UK, this is a must in the process, and the top ready-made clothes in Italy also pay attention to this. The first reason is that the work hours are long and the second reason is that the materials are wasted. There is no doubt that the manufacturers who do not match the strips and the grids are cutting corners! It can be seen from this detail that the professional level and attitude of a manufacturer. The most critical part of strip and grid alignment is the top pocket cover, because the pocket cover changes the direction of some stripes through the chest dart, and most manufacturers will not correct the stripes if they steal work

It is also difficult to match the bar. Suits that can match the bar will be very good in terms of workmanship and other aspects. The reason is very simple. The manufacturer attaches importance to such details. Of course, other aspects are more detailed. I like the manufacturers who do not cut corners on work and materials

2) patch and tongue

For a domestic suit, it is cutting corners without a tongue, but the cloth on the tongue is later received on the patch. It is cutting materials. As mentioned earlier, Blue Leopard is stingy. Here, if it doesn’t make a tongue at all, it’s even better to use fragmentary fabrics followed by a tongue. However, its fabric is only tens of yuan per meter. It sells for more than 4000 yuan. The boss really knows how to calculate

3) buttonhole

Top men’s clothing must be hand buttonholed. Another hand-made sign that is easy to see is buttonhole. It is easy to lock a buttonhole by machine, but it is troublesome to lock a buttonhole by hand. It takes an average of 15 minutes. A suit of clothes with more than ten buttonholes takes several hours. That’s why this Kung Fu is worth the price. Real buttonholes on cuffs can be divided into machine buttonholes and manual buttonholes. Manual buttonholes have become a symbol of value due to long working hours. The world’s top suits are all hand-made buttonholes. In other words, if the cuffs are not hand-made buttonholes, they are not qualified to be called top suits

4) barge head

Almost all ready-made clothes do not have lapels. Only top-level hand-made clothes and customized clothes have lapels. The purpose is to connect the lapels with the chest lining, which is not easy to deform, but also to maintain the natural shape of the lapels. It takes several hours for a coat to be hand-made, so there are almost no hand-made lapels except for the customization of Saville street in England. Even the Italian Kiton is machine-made

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