Abstract: the suit skirt is one of the main varieties of women’s clothing. Although the style is simple, its production process basically includes the production points of general skirts. Therefore, the suit skirt is also the basis for learning the production process of skirts. In the cutting structure of the suit skirt, the waist and hips are often combined by the methods of darting and pleating, and the length changes up and down the knee. In order to facilitate the movement, pleats or slits are often made in the front and back. Let’s introduce the technological process of the suit skirt< p> I. overview of the shape of the suit and skirt
Install the waist head. The front part is set with a hidden tuck in the middle. The upper part of the hidden tuck is set with an open line. The front waist is closed with two darts, and the back waist is closed with four darts. The right side is sewed with a zipper at the door opening
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II. Finished product specifications of suits and skirts
Unit: cm
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III. parts of suits and skirts
1. The width of the waist and head shall be consistent, smooth and straight, without ripple shape, and the waist opening shall not be loosened
2. The length of the door inner placket shall be the same. The zipper shall not be exposed. The lower end of the door shall be sealed flat. The door inner placket shall not be worn
3. The concealed pleats shall be smoothly sealed, the open line of the seam shall be smooth and straight, and the live pleats shall not be opened or stirred
4. The ironing shall be flat and sharp, and shall not be yellow or scorched
IV. quality requirements for suits and skirts
1. Fabric: one front skirt, one rear skirt, one waist, one waist opening, and one inner skirt
2. Lining materials: one piece of waist lining, one piece of strap at the zipper of the side seam, and one piece of lining at the inner flap
3. Others: one zipper, four buttons or one pair of trousers hooks
v. key points and difficulties in making suits and skirts
1. Hidden pleats
2. Install the zipper
3. Mount the waist
VI. technological process of suits and skirts
Make sewing marks ¡ú edge binding ¡ú front and back darting ¡ú check the front skirt pieces for hidden pleats ¡ú sew the side seams and install zippers ¡ú make the waist ¡ú install the waist ¡ú manual ¡ú ironing ¡ú inspection
VII. Production process of suits and skirts
1. Make sewing marks
according to the needs of different fabrics, sewing marks can be made by sewing thread, drawing pink thread, eye scissors, etc.
(1) Front skirt: concealed tuck position, concealed tuck seal height, dart position, right side door opening height, door opening welt, bottom welt
(2) Back skirt: dart and hem
2. Edge banding
(1) The front and rear skirts are cuffed on all three sides except the waist section
(2) The back of the inner placket is pasted with thin adhesive lining and folded in half, and the inner and lower openings are double-layer cuffed together
(3) The waist is lined with glue, and the lower part of the waist is cuffed
3. Front and rear film saving
Same as the method of trousers darting
4. Front skirt concealed pleats
(1) Concealed pleat
Turn the front skirt piece inward, manually set it according to the concealed pleat position, then pull it from the waist to the concealed pleat seal, and knock down the needle
(2) Sub ironing dark pleat
Split the front skirt with concealed pleats to both sides and level it with thread. Cover the water cloth with water spray for ironing, and open the upper part of the line
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5. Sew the side seam and install the zipper
(1) Suture side seam
Sew the thread on the right side to the zipper seal of the door opening installation, and iron the seam. Both sides of the door opening shall also be ironed by turning the sewing head button. In order to prevent the placket from returning, one strap can be glued along the welt line. The left side seam can be sewn after the zipper is installed
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(2) zipper
A. fix the zipper. The zipper is fastened to the inside flap
B. install the right rear zipper. Turn the sewing head at the door opening of the right rear panel, close to the edge of the zipper tooth, about 0.4~0.5cm away from the center of the zipper, and press the 0.1cm seam. The line can be fixed first and then locked, as shown in Figure 3-3 (1). If the placket needs to cover the 0.1cm seam line of the right rear panel fixed zipper, the seam head at the right rear panel door opening shall be less turned by 0.2~0.3cm, and the 0.1cm seam shall be pressed
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C. install the right front zipper. Pull up the zipper, turn the inner flap towards the rear panel, turn the door opening of the right front panel along the welt width mark, align it with the rear panel up and down, close the seam, cover the zipper, press the 0.8~1cm seam, and then fix it with a line
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D. sealed. The inner placket is flat, and the lower end is sealed with four or five stitches
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6. Make a waist
method 1:
(1) Mark the waist
Mark the lower opening of the waist
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(2) waist ironing
The reverse side of the waist is folded in half, and the side inside the waist is ironed and scalded
method 2:
(1) Stick on the lumbar lining and make a mark
Stick the adhesive resin net waist lining onto the waist surface, and make a waist installation mark at the lower opening of the waist surface
(2) Buckle the lower opening of the waist
The seam head at the lower opening of the waist is wrapped tightly along the waist lining buckle and ironed
(3) Buckle the upper opening of the waist
The upper opening of the waist is tightly wrapped along the waist lining buckle and ironed
(4) Buckle around the waist
Buckle the inside of the waist along the lower opening of the waist and iron it. The scalded waist makes the waist naturally contain about 0.1cm wider than the waist. When installing the waist, the waist can also be fastened at the same time when pressing the waist surface. If the waistband is fitted with a drop seam, the waistband should be about 0.2cm wider
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7. Waist fitting
(1) Check dimensions
Check whether the waist size of skirt meets the specification requirements
(2) Waistband
The alignment mark on the waist shall be aligned with the corresponding position of the skirt waist opening, with the waist on the top, the skirt body on the bottom, the front side overlapped, and the seam head aligned. The line shall be sewn along the net lining edge of the waist from the placket to the inner placket. Pay attention to carrying a handle upward at the concealed pleats at the waist to make the lower part of the concealed pleats close together to prevent opening. The waist can be a little tighter to prevent the mouth from returning
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after the waist is installed, the waist and the front of the waist are overlapped, and the two ends are sealed. Pay attention to the uniformity inside and outside
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(3) press the waist
The waist should be turned right, the waist should be flat, and the front pocket should have a 0.1-0.15cm seam. When pressing the lower opening of the waist, pay attention to the tightness of the lower waist to prevent rippling. You can also check the seam at the lower opening of the front waist
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8, manual
(1) Trouser hook
Install a trouser hook at the inside of the waist door. The trouser hook shall be installed in the middle of the waistband of the placket, 0.5cm away from the seam, and the trouser loop shall be installed in the middle of the waistband of the inner placket, flush with the inner opening of the inner placket
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(2) tighten the bottom edge triangle needle
Turn in the bottom edge, fix it with thread, stretch the triangle needle, and remove the thread
9. Ironing
(1) Ironed and thinned skirt trim
When ironing, the iron should not exceed the welt width to avoid welt marks on the front
(2) Hot side seam, concealed tuck, dart, waist surface, waist lining
Flatten and iron these parts
Note: the front ironing should be covered with a water cloth and ironed with water spray. When ironing, the iron should be pressed straight up and down. Do not push the iron sideways. The direction of the iron should be consistent with the grain of the fabric, so as to avoid deformation and deformation of the skirt
10. Inspection
The inspection process and method can be carried out according to the quality requirements in this section